When the Hajj journey began at the shores of Chattogram

Although the exact beginning cannot be determined, such sea-based Hajj journeys may have started even before the Muslim conquest of Sindh (664–712 CE). Most written records, however, date from the medieval period. Photo: Collected

Before the advent of ships, people travelled to Hajj on foot or by camel and donkey. However, large-scale journeys began with maritime travel, at least as suggested by written history.

The overland route through northwestern India was long, difficult, and dangerous. In contrast, Arab traders travelled widely by sea in sailing vessels. On their journeys between East Asia and the Middle East, they often stopped at the port of Chattogram for rest. Over time, they also came there for trade, and Chattogram became one of the major international ports of the region.

Although the exact beginning cannot be determined, such sea-based Hajj journeys may have started even before the Muslim conquest of Sindh (664–712 CE). Most written records, however, date from the medieval period.

For instance, in Chattogramer Samaj O Sanskritir Ruprekha by historian Abdul Haque Chowdhury, it is noted that during the Sultanate period (1340–1538 CE), pilgrims from Bengal and eastern India travelled to Hajj by ship from Chattogram. They sailed from Chattogram or Satgaon to Jeddah, covering about 5,633 nautical miles via the Bay of Bengal, Indian Ocean, Arabian Sea, and Gulf of Aden.

Further evidence appears in the Journal of the Bihar Research Society (1967), which records that during Sultan Ghiyasuddin Azam Shah's reign, Hazrat Muzaffar Shah Balkhi was sent to Hajj from Chattogram by royal order.

When Bombay became the gateway to Mecca

Hajj journeys from the port of Chattogram took place during the Mughal period, although the port of Surat in Gujarat was far more prominent and widely used, known as the "Bab-al-Makkah" or "Gateway to Mecca." 

Emperor Akbar was the first Mughal ruler to support Hajj travel through state funding and subsidies. At that time, obtaining the Portuguese cartaz (pass) for sea travel was a major obstacle. After a security agreement with the Portuguese in 1575, Akbar arranged for an annual Hajj fleet.

There are no records of Mughal emperors performing Hajj themselves, but Gulbadan Begum, daughter of Emperor Babur and Akbar's aunt, is known to be the first woman from the imperial family to complete the pilgrimage. In some cases, individuals were also sent on Hajj as a form of exile.

During the British period, Bombay (now Mumbai) became the principal port for Hajj travel, while Chattogram declined in importance. Pilgrims from across British India, including Burma, Pakistan, and Bengal, travelled to Bombay. The journey often took six to seven months. Due to limited ship capacity, a lottery system was introduced, and many unsuccessful applicants returned home disappointed—giving rise to the term "Bombay Haji."

By the late nineteenth century, colonial authorities became concerned about cholera outbreaks linked to Hajj pilgrims. Shipping regulations and quarantine measures were introduced, but enforcement was weak due to overcrowding and poor sanitation. Reports in newspapers such as The Times of India highlighted the harsh conditions faced by pilgrims.

Between 1886 and 1893, the British appointed the Thomas Cook Company as the official Hajj agent, but it withdrew due to low profits. Later, private brokers resumed control. By the 1930s, most Hajj voyages operated through Bombay and later, Calcutta from 1937.

After the 1947 partition, East Pakistan organised Hajj travel via Chattogram. Ships like Safina-e-Arab and Safina-e-Arafat carried pilgrims to Jeddah, though overcrowding and difficult conditions persisted throughout the journey.

Bodies were disposed of at sea

An article titled "An Irishman's Diary on a Pilgrim Ship to Jeddah" by writer Norman Freeman was published in The Irish Times of Ireland. It describes the suffering of Hajj pilgrims in 1954, when he was working on the British India Company's ship Sardhana. 

He wrote, "The ship I worked on was assigned to bring 1,500 pilgrims from Jeddah to Chattogram. The passengers suffered greatly from malnutrition and illness. Our doctors tried their best. Fortunately, only four people died, as the number could have been higher. Their bodies were wrapped in canvas, weighted with lead, and lowered into the sea from the rear of the ship. The imam offered prayers, and the bodies drifted into the Indian Ocean."

During the Sultanate period (1340–1538 CE), Hajj pilgrims from Bengal, as well as the entire eastern region of India, would travel to Hajj by ship from the port of Chattogram. Pilgrims would sail from the ports of Chattogram or Satgaon to the port of Jeddah in Arabia. The distance from Chattogram port to Jeddah—via the Bay of Bengal, the Indian Ocean, and the Arabian Sea through the Gulf of Aden—is approximately 5,633 nautical miles.

When the ship finally reached Chattogram, the exhausted pilgrims disembarked carrying their small belongings. Despite the hardship, there was a sense of relief and dignity on their faces.

Mamtaz Uddin Ahmed, a resident of old Dhaka, once saw his aunt's brother travel by train to Chattogram for Hajj and return after nearly three months. He recalled hearing how deceased passengers were wrapped in white cloth and pushed into the sea.

Ahmadul Islam Chowdhury, president of the Hajj Pilgrims Welfare Association, added that heavy stones were tied to bodies to prevent them from resurfacing. News of deaths was sometimes sent by telegram, though many families waited at the port in hope of their loved ones' return.

Final farewells at Jetty No 4

Hajj travel from Chattogram was often seen as a final journey, with many believing pilgrims might not return. As a result, farewell gatherings at Jetty No 4 in Pahartali became massive social events. Relatives, friends, and even people from nearby areas would gather in large numbers, often staying in nearby hotels or with local families. Among the 17 jetties in the port, Jetty No. 4 was specially assigned for Hajj departures due to its size and open space.

On departure day, pilgrims were transported by bus to the port in the morning. After boarding the ship, the gangway was lifted and security cordons were withdrawn, allowing the public to enter the port area. People crowded the jetty to witness the final moments, offering prayers, waving, and bidding emotional farewells. As the ship slowly left the Karnaphuli River for the sea, horns from other vessels sounded in salute, marking respect for the pilgrims' journey.

Hajj was considered a prestigious and sacred undertaking, especially due to its cost and distance. In the early 1970s, travel expenses varied by class: deck fares were around Tk1,919, second class about Tk4,500, and first class over Tk7,000, including food, accommodation, and government charges. Despite the hardship and expense, thousands continued to undertake the voyage each year.

A disrupted voyage in a newly born nation

When the 1971 war began, the first Hajj voyages of Safina-e-Arab and Safina-e-Arafat departed as scheduled, but later trips were cancelled. According to Ahmadul Islam, the 1972 Hajj season created deep uncertainty for pilgrims who had already left. Many of them were stuck abroad, as their documents remained with the former Pakistani authorities. They could neither return to Pakistan nor enter the newly independent Bangladesh.

To resolve the crisis, Sheikh Mujibur Rahman sent a request through the United Nations to Saudi King Faisal, asking for permission for the stranded pilgrims to return. Approval was granted, and they were eventually brought back on the Indian ship Mohammadi in two voyages.

However, post-war conditions made navigation difficult. Sea mines and wrecked vessels in Chattogram port forced ships to divert toward Mongla, but shallow waters prevented docking. The Mohammadi was finally anchored at Chandpur, where thousands of anxious relatives gathered after hearing news of the pilgrims' return.

Between 1972 and 1975, Hajj travel remained limited due to Bangladesh's lack of diplomatic recognition from Saudi Arabia. Later, relations improved and, with Indian assistance, pilgrims again departed via Chattogram. As the old ship became unfit, from the following year only about 3,000 pilgrims were sent by air from Dhaka under Biman Bangladesh Airlines through a lottery system.

Hizbul Bahar: The only Bangladeshi ship for Hajj pilgrims

In 1976–77, the Government of Bangladesh purchased a passenger ship named Hizbul Bahar, which could carry about 1,800 pilgrims. A single voyage took nearly two months. Later, to reduce costs, the vessel was handed over to the Navy, where it was renamed Shaheed Salahuddin and used for Hajj transport for a few more years before becoming obsolete and eventually abandoned.

After 1977, direct Dhaka–Jeddah flights by Saudi Airlines were introduced, and newspaper advertisements promoted faster air travel. Umrah fares were a little over Tk9,000, with journeys taking only 6–7 hours. As air travel became more accessible and competitive, sea travel declined rapidly in the early 1980s, leading to the end of ship-based Hajj services and the closure of the Chattogram Hajj camp.

The Pahartali Hajj camp had once been a vibrant religious centre, especially during the Hajj season. Since the British period, Arab visitors often stayed in Chattogram months before Hajj, welcomed warmly by locals who treated them as guests from the holy land. Hotels like Hotel Miskah on Station Road hosted them, but they were also frequently invited into homes for meals and hospitality.

This festive tradition continued through the Pakistan era and the operation of Hizbul Bahar. Later, with the rise of air travel, temporary Hajj camps were set up in different places, until operations were permanently shifted to Ashkona, Dhaka, in 1989.